Choosing Your Pearls
The following factors should influence your pearl buying decision.
Nacre Thickness and Quality
This is the most important factor and will determine the durability and longevity of the pearl. Lustrous,
iridescent pearls require thick layers of nacre. High quality South Sea pearls will have nacre that comprises
40 to 50% of the pearl thickness. Good orient, and intense luster indicate thick nacre. Cracked or peeling
nacre indicates poor nacre thickness and poor quality.
Luster and Orient
The glow that emanates from within the depths of the pearl is known as its luster. The thicker the nacre,
the better the luster. The luster should be uniform and the pearl should appear vibrant. Orient is the
iridescent play of color across the surface of the pearl. Good orient indicates good quality nacre.
Color
White pearls should be evaluated based on body color and overtone. Body color refers to the primary hue of
the pearl e.g. white, cream, or yellow. Overtone refers to the tint e.g. pinkish, greenish, silver or blue.
Pink is the scarcest overtone in white pearls. Black cultured pearls range in color from light gray to black.
Black pearls with green overtone are the most rare and most costly especially when they occur in "peacock
green" (a greenish-blue-black).
Surface Perfection
This quality refers to the pearl's skin. Imperfections include blisters, pimples, spots or cracks. The greater
the quantity and size of these imperfections, the less durable and the less attractive the pearl will be. The
cleaner the skin, the rarer and costlier the pearl.
Shape
There are three pearl shape categories - spherical, symmetrical and baroque. Spherical are the most rare, and
the rounder the pearl, the costlier it is. Teardrop and pear shapes are considered symmetrical pearls - the
better they are proportioned, the better the quality. Baroque pearls are the most common; they are irregular
in shape and tend to be the least expensive.
Size
Cultured pearls are sold by millimeter size where 1mm = 1/25 inch. The millimeter measurement indicates the
pearl's diameter. Larger pearls are more rare and more expensive.
Make
Make describes the overall look of a pearl, and when referring to several pearls, refers to how well they
match. A well-matched strand should have relatively uniform size, shape, color, luster and surface texture.
Gemnation proudly sells only the highest quality pearls.